As catches begin along Korea's southern and western coasts, seafood markets and restaurants are posting seasonal signs. Gizzard shad is generally known as a fish that fattens from late summer into early autumn.

The exact timing varies annually. Warmer water changes when shoals move north and how long they stay, along with catch volumes and size. Observers note that rising coastal temperatures in recent years have been nudging the seasonal calendar for several species.

Choosing and handling

Bones stiffen as the fish grows, so mid-sized specimens are easier to work with raw, while larger ones suit grilling with their thicker flesh. Firmly attached scales, clear eyes and a taut belly indicate freshness.

Because the fish has many fine bones, raw preparations usually slice it thin, bones included. That can be heavy on digestion, so grilling or braising is easier for children and older diners.

In Chinese-heritage kitchens

Southern Chinese and Taiwanese cooking has many ways with oily fish. Steaming with ginger and scallion, or braising with a light dilution of broad-bean paste, suits this fish well. Households that avoid raw fish may find salt-grilling with a tart sauce the safest route.

A fish in season is also a fish coming down in price. Comparing prices around Incheon's Sinpo Market, Seoul's Noryangjin or Busan's Jagalchi shows the spread. Since quality in seafood turns on storage temperature, keep the trip home short.